A simmering pot of bulalo loaded with vegetables, tender slabs of beef shanks and bone marrow is always a tempting sight. But fifteen huge cauldrons boiling simultaneously with different renditions of the popular local classic from Tagaytay's finest restaurants all in one place is a sight that will forever remain in my top list of culinary experiences. Welcome to the very first Creative Bulalo Challenge of the Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival...
A trip to Tagaytay always includes a mandatory bowl of bulalo, a hearty beef and bone marrow soup that warms both the palate and body with each soothing sip and savory bite. To celebrate this unique Tagaytay tradition, the organizers of the Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival capped the series of culinary events with a resounding bang with the first ever Creative Bulalo Challenge last September 14 at Sky Ranch Tagaytay. Fifteen restaurants go head-to-head for an epic showdown with their creative renditions of the iconic staple for a grand finale like no other showcasing Tagaytay's rich culinary heritage. Soup's on at Sky Ranch, read on for the full serving of Tagaytay's famous local specialty...
The grand cook-off was held at the spacious covered area of Sky Ranch Tagaytay set up with fifteen fully equipped stations. The size and scale of the logistics involved for the closing event of the Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival was impressive, and clearly the mid-morning rains and fog failed to dampen the excitement. After all this is bulalo, the one dish that has defined the Tagaytay experience for decades.
The popular bulalo traces its origins to the neighboring province of Batangas long known for its cattle industry. But Tagaytay located in the province of Cavite has claimed and embraced the dish as its own and has long since been associated with bulalo. With its average elevation of 610 meters above sea level and cool climate, it's easy to see why a steaming hot pot of hearty soup became synonymous with Tagaytay.
At each station, the sight of massive pots loaded to the brim with beef shanks and bone marrow in a gentle simmer fills the air with its fragrant savory notes...
...as each kitchen preps for the all-out bulalo feast. The ambitious concept behind the competition is the first of its kind, revealing a popular local delicacy rich in tradition with new and playfully inventive twists.
A closer look at the pot becomes the picture-perfect representation of Tagaytay filled with the bountiful harvest and produce of the land in one dish with a fresh medley of assorted vegetables covered in a light and thin yet rich broth.
There are countless recipes for bulalo, varying with the vegetables added and fragrant aromatics, herbs and spices used. But the constant remains the beef shanks and bone marrow bringing an indulgent layer of savory richness to the pot. It's this intricate blend of different ingredients and components that will determine the winners of the first Creative Bulalo Challenge.
The Organizing Chair of the Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival, Chef Rhea Castro Sycip of Tagaytay's The Fatted Calf and Flour Pot Manila along with husband Chef JayJay Sycip shares the goal and mission of the month-long festivities of showcasing Tagaytay's culinary richness and diversity while uniting restaurants and food businesses with a common advocacy. And it appears to be a resounding success with calls for a second run next year. And about time too as gastronomic tourism becomes a priority in the overall development plan of the national government.
Chef Rhea Castro Sycip briefs the panel of judges for the first Creative Bulalo Challenge led by noted and respected Chefs Myrna Segismundo, Angeli Andal, Gino Santayana and Ivory Yat Vaksman. And the task ahead is not an easy one, not when fifteen of Tagaytay's finest restaurants spin their own take on a Tagaytay classic.
The wide open covered space at Sky Ranch Tagaytay becomes a blur of activity as each station shifts the gears up a notch in prepping each component of their bulalo...
...with many sticking to the tried and true bulalo tradition with its comfortingly familiar notes. And that's no surprise as bulalo is pretty much a revered religion with countless unwritten rules as much as barbecue is in the Midwest and Southern US.
Then, there are others out to challenge convention with untraditional and truly creative spins on the classic. The balancing act between tradition and creativity where flavor remains the ultimate basis in determining the winners will be no easy task.
After a few hours, the flavorful base of the stock slowly takes shape...
...as the different chefs continue to build on the flavors with their secret repertoire of seasonings and spices.
Like many traditional dishes, you just can't hurry a pot of bulalo. This is slow food, dictated by both time and temperature with a gentle patience.
That's what's needed to ensure that the beef shanks are fork-tender and the bone marrow's richness infuses into the light broth. This is what makes bulalo an all-time and nostalgic classic with its homespun and hearty goodness.
The finishing touches are then applied, adding extra seasonings for the perfect and balanced base of flavors...
...while other pots continue to simmer. It all starts to look like the traditional bulalo, but some kitchens have some tricks up their sleeves to surprise you...
...showcasing modern culinary techniques...
...paired with exquisite presentation. Modernity and tradition are juxtaposed in stark contrast reflecting the creative width and depth of the competition.
For some of the kitchens, plating becomes the final touch for their entries...
...while for others, letting the slow heat complete the magical transformation of the pot determines the next step for their entries...
...with just a pinch of seasoning for good measure.
Within the appointed time, the bowls are presented featuring a variety of subtle differences to set it apart from the rest. From star anise and a bark of cinnamon...
...to the enduring classic we all know with the day's fresh harvest of vegetables...
...and the addition of comforting noods making it a one pot meal. Already, the different renditions paint an impressive and unique collection featuring Tagaytay's iconic dish reinterpreted by fifteen restaurants.
Other interesting renditions at the Creative Bulalo Challenge also featured the addition of non-traditional flavor enhancers like kamias and pineapples as a souring agent and even kimchi reflecting the variety of inventive tweaks on a classic.
The different renditions are then presented and served...
...and it's time for a bulalo feast like no other with expressions of hearty comfort food in a pot. Or plate. This is the much anticipated moment, built up over the last few hours with not one but fifteen pots simultaneously simmering and collectively releasing its fragrant aromas to tease you appetite.
For some restaurants, preserving its original recipe in its truest form is perfection in itself. The enduring legacy of the local staple is upheld remaining timeless with its nostalgic appeal. And yes, it still hits the spot.
Each restaurant had its own blend of vegetable combinations without muddling the bold savory notes and flavors of the beef shanks and bone marrow.
An attempt to switch up the flavors with the addition of souring ingredients like kamias for a sinigang like version by The Kitchen at Kimberly of Kimberly Hotel brings a refreshing change of pace to the bulalo experience...
...while creative reinterpretations executed in bite-sized nibbles paired with a bold and refreshing brew by Papa Bolo offered a new way to enjoy the flavorful essence of bulalo.
Another creative interpretation is the entry from Binulo, a Capampangan restaurant with its own version inspired by the popular sisig. Chopped up bits of fork-tender shredded pork enriched with bone marrow and seasoned with calamansi and fiery chilies presented some tasty possibilities...
The fusion of two equally iconic local dishes may seem a stretch but it does work with its layers of savory richness with each spoonful. And there's more...
...from a kaldereta inspired execution...
...with another paired with mashed potatoes and vegetables elegantly plated in the style of Western cuisine. The creative intent is definitely there, and the flavors are equally up there in sync with the competition's aim of showcasing different, bold and refreshed renditions of the local staple.
One may ask, is it still bulalo? The form may be different and even unexpected but the flavors of the beef and bone marrow still comes through staying true to the local staple.
And loads of bone marrow were served that day in various executional styles...
...like this elegantly plated creation from Summit Ridge Tagaytay with tender oven-baked beef shank fried to a perfect crispness topped with vegetable purée, garlic marrow aioli and onion confit for a seamless play on contrasting yet delectable flavors and textures.
The blend of seasonings and mix of vegetables become the subtle and even nuanced secret ingredients that sets one entry apart from the other. All this clearly reflects infinite possibilities with the bulalo as a flavorful base.
Juddie's Bulalohan comes in strong with its flying noodles rendition combining the beefy richness of pares and bulalo in one indulgent bowl of unrestrained flavors. Imagine pares with noods in bulalo form, and you get the picture. And the flavors are just as you imagine it, rich, savory and hearty that's perfect for the cool weather of Tagaytay. A bountiful bowl, the flying noodles complete this creative reinterpretation of bulalo.
Sol Victoria's Kitchen takes another route drawing inspiration from Korean flavors for its version of bulalo. You have the usual suspects led by tender beef shanks and bone marrow supported by a traditional cast of Petchay Tagalog, potatoes, beans and corn in a rich broth. But the similarities to the usual bulalo ends right there.
Sol Victoria's Kitchen brings the added flavorful punch of Korean kimchi to the pot and the result is vibrant yet delicately balanced notes. The richness of the broth, beef and bone marrow are tempered by the sharpness and mildly soothing heat of the kimchi and the sweetness of the assorted vegetables. Complex yet well-balanced flavors redefined the flavors of the Tagaytay staple yet remained comfortingly familiar with the broth, beef and vegetables along with kimchi coming together perfectly.
All fifteen entries were then laid on the center table for all to see...
...and full plates served to the panel of judges.
Fifteen rounds of savory tastings completed the first part of the judging process...
...followed by serious deliberations. The judges recall and identify each little detail from each dish, the execution, presentation and how all the flavors come together. Clearly, this isn't easy considering the wide variety of creative renditions spanning the traditional to the far end of the spectrum with innovative executions.
Eventually, a decision is made...
...and the winners were announced by Chef Rhea Castro Sycip, Organizing Chair of the Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival.
Summit Ridge Tagaytay claims Third Place with its elegantly plated dish of oven-baked and fried beef shank topped with vegetable purée, garlic marrow aioli and onion confit for an exquisite reimagination of bulalo. The intricate culinary techniques and masterful execution presents bulalo in a whole new expression of savory richness.
Juddies Bulalohan bags the Second Place for its bulalo/pares creation with flying noodles. The dish isn't all just show, it's got the flavors to back it up. And a homestyle feel that's both honest and real with its flavors. Bulalo, pares and noods? Yes, please.
And the top prize for the first Creative Bulalo Challenge of the Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival goes too...Sol Victoria's Kitchen with its Kimchi Bulalo. The infusion of kimchi just changes the flavor profile of the classic bulalo yet it works perfectly with its play on contrasting tart, savory yet balanced notes. The added layer of flavor from the kimchi pairs well with the comforting richness of the beef shank and bone marrow that's perfect for Tagaytay's cool weather warming the palate with bold and vibrant notes.
And this is just the beginning as Tagaytay's culinary scene continues to evolve backed by a solid tradition and a creative pool of talents. The competition's goal of showcasing its gastronomic heritage bannered by the iconic bulalo reinforces its position on the culinary map. And think of the even bigger possibilities when the program is rolled out to other regions revealing the full tapestry of local flavors.
In the end, the ultimate winner is Tagaytay. And the classic bulalo reimagined in a variety of ways by Tagaytay's restaurateurs keeps this southern destination high up on your list as we await next year's edition of the Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival.
For more on the Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival, visit their FB Page and IG Feed at https://www.facebook.com/tagaytayfoodandwinefestival/ and https://www.instagram.com/tagaytayfoodandwinefestival/ for more information and updates.
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