Flavors of Palawan: Discover The Last Frontier at San Vicente's Cub Agutaya

The day's freshest catch, served fresh from the sea to your table, at Palawan's last frontier...

...it's days like this that will make you remember Club Agutaya in San Vicente. Serene and tranquil without the trappings of crass commercialism, San Vicente presents a rare opportunity to experience what it was like, and so far still is, nature at its purest and finest untouched by unregulated development. Whispers of San Vicente as the next Boracay can often be heard, and it's easy to see why. It's also the perfect setting for some of Palawan's legendary seafood, masterfully prepared each day at Club Agutaya. 

Many describe Palawan as the country's last frontier, but unregulated commercial development has taken its toll. Finding that isolated and secluded beach is fast becoming one of those modern day crap shoots. But Palawan's San Vicente may truly be one of the last frontiers. One of the best kept secrets of Palawan, San Vicente is known for its spectacular stretches of fine white sand beaches along its sun-kissed coast. Long Beach, appropriately named for its majestic 14.5 kilometer white sand beach, is home to Club Agutaya, an eco-environmental boutique resort. The expansive property showcases Filipino-inspired architecture and design, working with nature and preserving the lush and verdant greens maintaining the tropical island vibe. As part of its advocacy, the property is powered by renewable energy with efficient LED lighting driven by both solar and wind for a clean footprint and significantly low environmental impact. In line with its green commitment, Club Agutaya is also the first resort in the country utilizing separate pipes in segregating waste water and treated in an efficient sewerage treatment facility. At Club Agutaya, preserving nature is high on the list.  

Overcast grey clouds hovered early that day on our flight to Palawan aboard Philippine Airlines' new Bombardier NextGen Q400 turboprop aircraft...

...reaching its optimum cruise altitude in no time high above the dark and ominous clouds. As we neared our destination, the grey clouds gave way to fluffy white puffs...

...and like they say, it's always summer in Palawan. Launched in October of 2018, PAL's new flight from Clark to San Vicente takes you directly to Palawan's emerging tourist destination, as well as providing convenient access to El Nido effectively bypassing Puerto Princesa to cut your travel time. Our arrival at Club Agutaya early that morning was greeted by the vibrant chirping sounds of birds and the warm smiles of the resort staff. A quick glance tells you they're probably right, this could very well be the next Boracay.

The spacious and airy design of Club Agutaya brings the outdoors in highlighted by the grand wooden staircase surrounded by gardens...

...accentuated by bright splashes of color from the resort's casual yet elegant and all-natural furnishings.

Natural thatch-covered roofs used in many of the resort's structures and facilities, including their stately villas, exude that exotic island vibe...


...all the way to Cafe Lily, the resort's casual restaurant serving global cuisine using the finest and freshest local ingredients. Aside from its scenic views, dining at Club Agutaya is an experience in itself.

Checking in is a breeze at Club Agutaya, and in just a few minutes, you're led to your home away from home with its well-appointed accommodations. Club Agutaya boasts of 58 rooms, including private villas with verandas to suit any requirement or budget from P 4,500 to P 14,000... 

...and a well-stocked bar, the View Bar, for that perfect tipple while enjoying another magnificent sunset by the beach.


A leisurely walk from the resort leads you to the famed Long Beach with its pristine soft and powdery sand... 

...and this is where your Palawan getaway truly begins. The vast and infinite expanse of San Vicente's Long Beach, just a few steps from the 3.5 hectare resort property of Club Agutaya, triggers memories of another beach destination when it was still undiscovered, in all its undeveloped glory. At Club Agutaya, you can have the beach all to yourself and walk the entire 14.5 kilometer stretch with just the sounds of surf and wind accompanying you. It's rare to find gems like these, and rarer still to experience the sun, wind and gentle spray of the sea without the clutter and noise of a sprawling runaway commercial development day after day for the entire duration of our stay at Club Agutaya. The lessons learned from the recent Boracay experience provides key insights in managing a destination's growth and sustained development. And it's good to hear that Club Agutaya intends to keep it that way.

Chef and owner Maria Evangelista adds her own personal touch at Club Agutaya with her heritage recipes and global cuisine using the very best of Palawan's freshest produce. At Cafe Lily, Chef Maria lays out a sumptuous spread starting at breakfast all the way to dinner...

...surrounded by local art and furnishings for that rustic and quaint feel. Starting the day right at Cafe Lily is always good idea, with a lavish buffet spread of local favorites to get you ready for the day's adventures. Many of Cafe Lily's vegetables and herbs are sourced from the resort's very own gardens in line with the resort's advocacy on sustainability.


Tasked with maintaining the resort's long-term vision and marketing is Chef Maria's daughter, Icy Marinas, successful restaurateur and one of the metro's noted mixologists (for more on Icy "Dixie" Marinas, see my earlier posts, Gin Is In: Discovery Primea Celebrates World Gin Day At Gilarmi Lounge where Icy Marinas showcases her gin-based cocktails, Blood and Sand and an Old-Fashioned at Hooch where I first met Icy four years ago, Drop Your Anchor For The Freshest Catch...at Catch and LuLu Restaurant: Elegant Dining Comes To Salcedo Village on her previous endeavors. You can also see more of Icy Marinas at https://drinkmanila.com/). For Icy Marinas, there's a lot to be learned from the Boracay experience, lessons that are taken to heart at Club Agutaya. Icy Marinas already planned the day's itinerary for the group, with each stop reflecting the natural wonders of San Vicente.

After breakfast, a short 10-minute ride takes you to one of San Vicente's many must-see sights, the idyllic Little Baguio Falls.

Tucked away deep in San Vicente's forests, Little Baguio Falls is located within Barangay New Agutaya just a few minutes away from Club Agutaya. The descent along a gentle slope brings you to the base of Little Baguio Falls with its cool waters...

...and a dramatic view of the natural cascade. Little Baguio Falls is part of a protected sanctuary in Barangay New Agutaya where visitors can enjoy trekking and bird-watching. The pool at the base of the falls is perfect for relaxing dip...


...or follow the stream and observe nature up close...

...and find your own zen moment.

And you can find many more moments like these at Palawan's San Vicente, quickly emerging as the top new destination of the province. Now with direct flights from PAL, paradise is just a short one-hour flight away.

Next, hop aboard a 4x4 and explore the entire 14.5 kilometer stretch of Long Beach...


...where six friends don't even cramp up the frame with so much space for more...

...and the absence of establishments and hordes of tourists by the shore adds an almost surreal yet serene feel to the purity of the experience. This is what paradise should be, uncluttered with a clarity that brings you back to simpler, uncomplicated times. This is paradise found, at Palawan's San Vicente.

The group chose their spots for that perfect shot, and it's interesting to observe how they each have that unique way of seeing and capturing San Vicente's scenic vistas. And when you have the entire stretch, all 14.5 kilometers of it all to yourself, finding that perfect spot is easy.

And just when you thought there were no more places where you can lose yourself immersed in nature's grandeur, San Vicente pops up as the new top destination for both local and foreign travelers. 

A walk on the beach yields a harvest of large and succulent clams. Where else can you do this in the country's popular yet overcrowded and over-developed beaches? But I'm interested with what Chef Maria can do with this fresh ocean haul.

Along the way, we meet a few residents who've made San Vicente their home. I couldn't help but feel just a little envious, wouldn't it be awesome to just leave everything behind and come home to a place like this? 

As we make some tracks aboard the 4x4, you'll just never know what washes up on the shore. A puffed-up porcupine fish rolling on the sand, brought in by the surf, soon becomes another highlight of the day. It's not everyday you find one of nature's unique sea creatures rolling in the sand... 

...it's surprises like this that remind you of San Vicente's pristine state, where time seems to stop, allowing you a glimpse of its many wonders. Maybe it's the strong surf, or maybe even a predator, that forced it near the shore. A travel blogger friend gives this guy a second chance by tossing him back to the sea.

Back at Club Agutaya, with some spare time to simply do nothing at all and just catch some sun and enjoy the beach, just enough to work up an appetite for a hearty lunch prepared by Chef Maria at Cafe Lily. Days like this...

At the table, Chef Maria shared her wide assortment of fresh-baked bread, all made and prepared at the resort. It's the attention to the little details that make dining at Cafe Lily such a treat. And when you're located right next to some of the country's richest fishing grounds, seeing seafood is a daily experience at Cafe Lily.

Just leave it to Chef Maria to amaze you with her hearty dishes. For lunch, Chef Maria served a lavish seafood feast starting with Tambakol, a local grilled mackerel caught of the waters of Palawan topped with onions and tomatoes laid on a fragrant banana leaf...

...paired with a refreshing Grilled Eggplant Salad topped with tart tomatoes. The flavors are clean and bold, with each bite delivering a burst of freshness.

Chef Maria then served her version of Tinola, a local chicken soup with turmeric and an aggressive dose of soothing heat from fiery fresh chili. Chef Maria isn't shy with flavors at all.

In between bites and sips of Chef Maria's dishes, plump mussels baked with cheese were also served... 

...along with the tender 12-Hour Braised Pork topped with grilled pineapple in a sweet and savory sauce. Each dish showcased the range of Cafe Lily's offerings, guaranteed to satisfy any appetite or craving.

And the clams from the beach? Chef Maria transformed our fresh harvest into a flavorful and rustic version of Spaghetti alle Vongole. The nutty notes of garlic and olive oil combine well with the fresh briny sweetness of the clams. From the sea just mere hours ago to your plate. Perfect.

And for the evening's dinner, Chef Maria teased the group with another fresh catch, a large local grouper. That's 14 kilos of freshness right there.

After a satisfying lunch, take a walk around the property...

...or why not go kayaking along the mangroves beside the resort? The route takes around the property's fringe for another view of Club Agutaya.

Better yet, find your beach chair or take the hammock and enjoy the ocean breeze, or borrow a book from the resort's library, just ask the front desk...


...and just take in the views. Just can't get better than that.

Later that evening, Chef Maria prepared our dinner at Cafe Lily starting with some fresh-baked bread...

...and a duo of soup dishes made with the 14-kilo Lapu-Lapu caught earlier that day with the tasty Sopa de San Vicente (L), a thick chowder-like soup with the vibrant notes of bouillabaisse and the local Sinigang (R) with its bold and tart flavors. 

Kitayama Beef Steak (L) with onions and local calamansi added a beefy punch to our dinner. And the rest of the 14-kilo Lapu-Lapu shown earlier? Chef Maria had some spicy intentions up her sleeves with a richly spiced and seasoned dish that will leave you asking for an extra bowl of rice...

...with her Fish Head Curry, one of many personal favorites during our stay at Club Agutaya. Chef Maria's dishes reflect her colorful personality, with bold and upfront flavors.

For dessert, Chef Maria whipped up an array of tempting local rice cakes to cap another sumptuous meal at Cafe Lily. Cafe Lily's repertoire of dishes include both local and classic continental dishes. But if you want something off-the-menu, Chef Maria is always up for the challenge.

Early the next morning, a new day brings with it a whole set of interesting possibilities at Club Agutaya, kicked off by another flavorful start at Cafe Lily. With so many beaches and hidden coves still to discover, San Vicente's wonders never seem to run out...

A mid-morning tipple by the beach? No problem. Icy Marinas has the perfect cocktail for a morning beach walk. That morning, Icy prepared round after round of soothing Bloody Mary cocktails to get you in the island groove in no time. Tart and mildly spicy with the deep hints of Tabasco and vodka, just can't have enough of this.

A perfect day with great company and a refreshing Bloody Mary by the beach, it's just another day at Club Agutaya...

...that just keeps getting better each passing day. Even with a group of friends, you can still be alone at the beach. That's what makes San Vicente special.

A few more rounds of Bloody Marys and we're off to another stop in San Vicente, a quaint local fishing village...

...for another peek at island life. And it looks good.

Our visit is warmed up by the village's welcoming committee...

...as the sound of gentle surf signals yet another day in paradise.

Life takes on a different kind of pace this side of San Vicente, but the outside world already left its mark. Throughout the fishing village, one can find remnants of the reality TV show, Survivor, seamlessly blending with the natural charm of the island. All you have to do is walk around and take a closer look.

And when bird meets drone, it's just another close encounter that's getting more and more common in this modern age.

Time stops in this side of San Vicente. Another Bloody Mary and it's time to head out for the next stop...

...at San Vicente's Bokbok Beach. Forests, mangroves and rows of coconuts mark a border by the sand, leading to the calm waters of the beach.


Behind the beach, the raw and undeveloped beauty of the land serves as a contrasting backdrop with its abundance of coconut trees and tropical palms. 

Locals attempt to tame the surf with their boards in the distance, and that's about as crowded as it gets here at Bokbok Beach. The seemingly endless white sand beaches are what makes San Vicente the next big thing in summer destinations. It's always summer in Palawan.

Our 4x4 navigates another off-road trail leading up a hill for a steep descent to another spot in paradise. San Vicente still has so many secrets waiting to be discovered. I've heard people describe San Vicente the way Boracay once was decades ago, before the crowds and the eventual sewerage problems. San Vicente offers a second chance to do things right.

Back at Club Agutaya, we prepared for yet another episode of nature's daily shows...

...ending the day with a picturesque sunset. It's time for cocktails.

At Club Agutaya's View Bar, the group gathered for a pre-dinner tipple.

Icy Marinas is totally in her element behind the bar, preparing her handcrafted cocktails as she shared even more stories on San Vicente. One can sense Icy's genuine love for the island, and San Vicente is in very good hands. Working closely with the local government, the first-class municipality is part of the Flagship Tourism Enterprise Zone...

...to guide its development as a tourism destination. That deserves a toast with an Old-Fashioned.

And another. Icy's classic Old-Fashioned just puts everything in the right perspective. With Club Agutaya right in the middle of San Vicente's many sights, guests at the resort are never too far away making it the perfect base for your many adventures while in San Vicente.

But Chef Maria had one more surprise that evening, serving plates of the largest mussels I've seen...

...delicately steamed with its clean and fresh briny sweetness. The fresh seafood of San Vicente continues to amaze, but there's still more to come...

Later that evening, Chef Maria and Icy treated the group to dinner at one of San Vicente's emerging Italian restaurants, Marina Terrace (more on my next post soon).

Breakfast presents another opportunity to sample local flavors at Cafe Lily, like the Danggit Lamayo, Palawan's very own dried fish delicacy. Larger and meatier than the usual dried fish from other regions, the flavors are deeper pairing well with the local vinegar, sunny side-up eggs and garlic fried rice.

It was our last day at Club Agutaya, and already, everything just ended way too soon. But not before another sumptuous meal prepared by Chef Maria...

...with Cafe Lily's spicy Pakbet made with garden fresh vegetables, shrimp paste and fiery chili...

...the traditional Pork Adobo, a local richly seasoned stew with tender pork marinated in vinegar and soy sauce...

...and Chicken Inasal, or grilled chicken. It's another feast prepared in the lavish style of Chef Maria, with each dish delivering bold flavors.

But no feast is complete at Cafe Lily without some of Palawan's fresh seafood, and we have the day's fresh catch steamed and grilled. Each day at Club Agutaya was a virtual sensory feast for the eye and palate, and even the soul.

As we boarded PAL's new Bombardier NextGen Q400 turboprop aircraft for the flight home...

...we enjoyed one last glimpse of paradise as the aircraft made its steep climb before fading slowly with the cloud cover.

High above, thoughts linger about paradise found...


...at San Vicente's Club Agutaya. And a reminder to just take it slow and do things right this time.

Club Agutaya is located along Long Beach, Barangay San Isidro, San Vicente, Palawan or call 048-723-1050 to 53, 63917-898-6566, 63917-898-1047 or visit their website https://www.clubagutaya.net/ at  for more information. You can also check out their FB Page at https://www.facebook.com/ClubAgutaya/.

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