Wine Not? Rediscover Comforting Local Flavors by Chef Gene Gonzalez Paired with Fine Wine at Cafe Ysabel

Capampangan buro and ukoy, bulcachong from Davao and piyanggang from Tawi-Tawi, the country's rich and diverse culinary heritage is showcased in a lavish feast paired with the finest wine. Wine? Wine not...

Yes, wine not. Noted chefs Gene Gonzalez, Gino Gonzalez, David Vinta, Axelle Semeniano, Ron Vermudez and Martin Eligan of Cafe Ysabel recently hosted the second Wine Not? Filipino Food & Wine Pairing with a selection of fine wine curated by old friend and high school batchmate Jay Labrador last November 13 at Cafe Ysabel's new location. The inventive wine pairing dinner with over fifteen courses highlighted the richness of our culinary diversity allowing diners to rediscover Filipino cuisine with a new palate. Ensaladang Pacu with Prosecco? Wine not...

For over thirty six years, Cafe Ysabel has been one of the metro's iconic and well-loved dining establishments. Loyal fans of Cafe Ysabel will be glad to know that many of the familiar antique furniture and paintings from the old restaurant can be found at its newest location preserving that signature and classic old-world vibe.

And it was good to be back at Cafe Ysabel. Before the exclusive wine pairing dinner, Chef Gene Gonzalez and Jay Labrador (L) recalled the very first Filipino Food Wine Pairing a couple of years back, and the second edition was well worth the wait. Held at the new location of Cafe Ysabel, this was going to be special. And memorable.

Our wine pairing dinner began with an amuse bouche of fresh-baked bread served with olive oil and glasses of soothing Famiglia Zonin Prosecco as the first course was served...

Drawing inspiration from Davao's rich regional flavors, Chef Gene Gonzalez served his first course of Sinuglaw Na Ilogon Og Bariles or fresh tuna and chitterling ceviche, a masterfully executed starter offering contrasting flavors and textures. The delicate briny freshness of the tuna and crunchy pork drapes the palate with layers of vibrant notes pairing well with the sweet crispness of the Prosecco. Regional dishes normally enjoyed with local beer holds its own with fine wine, revealing another layer to Filipino cuisine. It's just one of many flavorful surprises that evening at Cafe Ysabel...

Inside Cafe Ysabel's kitchens, Chef Gene Gonzalez preps one of the courses as another is served...

The Ensaladang Pacu Ebun Maalat Ampong Ukoy Taguntan or fiddlehead fern and preserved egg salad with baby river prawn fritters recreates nostalgic Capampangan flavors, flavors I grew up with triggering fond memories of countless childhood summers in Pampanga. Flavors, I have to admit, never even considered pairing with wine. But it works just fine with the Famiglia Zonin Prosecco. The subtle salty notes of the crisp fritter and the tart freshness of the fern salad is perfectly washed down with the bold sweetness of the Prosecco. Perfect. I'll have another glass, and perhaps one more plate please... 

From the Cordilleras up north, Chef Gene Gonzalez then served his Arroz Caldoso ng Tinolang Pinikpikan or native highland tribal chicken and chicken blood in papaya broth with rice, a creamy risotto-like dish topped with tender chunks of grilled chicken. The flavors are comfortingly familiar yet the experience is new and refreshing. Chef Gene Gonzalez masterfully reinvents traditional flavors weaving his own modern and contemporary spin. That calls for another glass of Prosecco.

The Trivento Brut Nature Single Vineyard is paired with the Bulanglang na Bangus Queng Bayabas, another traditional Capampangan dish of braised wild guava and milkfish soup. Each sip just takes you back to summers in Pampanga, with its bold and deep sour tartness and sweetness from the local guava complementing the delicate notes of the fresh milkfish. The broth is thick and creamy, perfectly cleansed by the Trivento Brut. 

The Croquettas Na Gabi at Munggo; Nilasing na Tawilis are Cafe Ysabel classics of crisp croquette of taro and mung bean stew with crispy gin-marinated Taal sardine are served next paired with Trivento Brut Nature Single Vineyard. Soft inside with a lightly crunchy outer layer, the croquette is enriched by a creamy puree of taro for an indulgent richness, contrasting with the intense notes of the gin-marinated crispy sardine for another inventive combination of flavor and texture.

A glass of Beaulieu Vineyard Chardonnay from Sonoma is paired with the Alimasag at Aligue sa Ampao or delicately flaked blue crab with crab fat sauce on crispy rice cracker delivering both vibrant notes and textures. The richness of the crab fat does not overwhelm the subtle flavors of the flaked blue crab meat and crisp rice cracker in a perfectly balanced course pairing well with the dry white Chardonnay.

But Chef Gene Gonzalez gently nudges the palate with the bold flavors of the Sinilab na Tilapia na Binalot sa Buyos at Balayan Guisado, a dish inspired by the cuisine of the Southern Tagalog region. The fire-roasted tilapia with fermented fish paste sauce on betel leaf offers layers of flavors, from the smoky hints of the roasted tilapia followed by the sharpness of the fermented fish paste and capped by the lightly bitter notes of the betel leaf. The layers of flavors are complemented by the refreshing dry sweetness of the Chardonnay.

More seafood is paired with the Chardonnay for the next course, the Lagat na Capiz at Pasayan sa Alagaw at Dilaw na Luya or coconut braised scallops and baby prawns in turmeric and odorata leaf. The creamy flavor and texture of the coconut sauce spiced with the soothing bite of turmeric brings out the delicate notes of the succulent scallops and prawns for this dish from the south. A gentle sip of the Chardonnay seems to bring out the flavors of the scallops and prawns, delivering a subtle burst on the palate.

In between courses, Cafe Ysabel's refreshing Dayap Sorbet was served as a palate cleanser before the next courses...

...starting with the Dinuguang Albay sa Pansit Bato from the Bicol region. The dish combines sauteed Bicol egg noodles with pork blood stew and coconut milk for another facet of local cuisine, this time paired with the deep and bold notes of a Fat Bastard Cabernet Sauvignon. This dish is a prelude to other dishes with fuller, more rounded and intense flavors. A good Cabernet matches this profile...

...pairing well with the Bulcachong from Davao, a slow-braised water buffalo soup with lemongrass, peanuts, and annatto. The savory richness of the fork-tender beef is enhanced by the thick and flavorful sauce matched by the Cabernet.

Chef Gene Gonzalez then served a playfully inventive execution of a classic dish inspired by Cafe Ysabel's menu, the Chorizong Sisig, Itlog Pugong Sarsiado, Pecadong Sinangag, a colorful and elegantly plated dish with pork face sausage, quail egg in tomato sauce, and tri-colored fried rice. For this dish, a smooth Fat Bastard Pinot Noir offers a pleasant change of pace. And it just works.

The next dish was probably the most anticipated course during the wine pairing dinner. It's a dish you either love or hate, or in my case, eventually succumbed to its flavorful charm. The Burong Babi Ampong Mustasa or crispy fermented pork with fermented rice laid on fresh mustard leaf is one of the more iconic dishes from Pampanga, and like one of those mandatory rites of passage growing up in a Capampangan family. For many old-timers, one is not considered a real Capampangan if one doesn't praise this dish. But it took me quite some time to appreciate this funky delicacy. For me, it was an evolving palate maturing over time that made me love a good Capampangan buro. But pairing it with wine made me wonder, is it even possible? Just leave it to Chef Gene Gonzalez and his team at Cafe Ysabel to open up your palate and explore new flavor experiences. The familiar salty notes of the fermented rice and the subtle spicy hints of the mustard leaf, it seems, works rather nicely with a Pinot Noir. Even a Cabernet. Bite a piece of the crisp pork for that perfect finish followed by a refreshing sip of Pinot Noir. And ask yourself, why didn't I think of this before?

From down south in Tawi-Tawi is Cafe Ysabel's take on the traditional Piyanggang Ayam or chicken in blackened coconut sauce with spice sprinkles. The smoky hints of the charred outer layer of the chicken is sweetened by the burnt coconut for a deep, almost nutty flavor. For me, this one calls for another glass of Pinot Noir.

One's appreciation for local cuisine is reignited with a few glasses of wine, like the Estopadang Habladurias at Nilupak or braised choice cut beef tongue with green plantain puree, a Cafe Ysabel original. It's a boldly flavored dish that pairs well with an equally robust Cabernet. The entire experience, from the first course down to the last, was like tasting the trademark notes of Filipino cuisine with a different perspective and a more open palate. Maybe it's the wine, maybe it's the diverse flavors of our culinary heritage. But local cuisine can be paired with wine. Wine not?

The lavish wine pairing feast culminates with indulgent desserts paired with Prosecco, starting with the Ube Natilla or purple yam creme brulee...

...the decadent Gatas Kalabaw Plate with Tres Leches Mantecado, Tibok-Tibok, and Taisan with Spun Sugar...

...and a Mignadise of Island Florentines and Ylang-Ylang Mallows with mango, nuts, guava and pineapple. Cafe Ysabel is definitely back.

After dinner, more wine was served to keep the good vibes going late that night. Chef Gene Gonzalez then called his team, greeted by the applause of satisfied guests. The evening was a celebration of local flavors, and the much-heralded return of Cafe Ysabel to the metro's culinary scene.

Another glass of wine, and my thoughts go back to one of the courses served during the wine pairing...

...as Chef Gene Gonzalez makes one more trip back to the kitchen to prepare the requested dish.

A plate of Ensaladang Paku Ebun Maalat Ampong Ukoy Taguntan to cap the evening at Cafe Ysabel's Wine Not? Filipino Food & Wine Pairing dinner. Nostalgic flavors come alive in a brilliantly curated dinner, opening up new possibilities and new experiences. Wine not? Absolutely. And rediscover local cuisine with a refreshingly new palate at Cafe Ysabel.